Of course, bread and butter isn’t reason enough to venture out to Beaconsfield to visit O.My. But it’s a pretty compelling one, given it’s up there with the best you’ll be served anywhere. Bouncy, airy, tangy sourdough with incredible crack to its crust to be slathered in cream-heavy butter heralds the DIY ethos of the brothers Bertoncello — Blayne and Tyson in the kitchen, Chayse out front with the wines — who brought degustation dining to the outer southeast and proved it can be done. And how.

The ever-changing menu, dictated by what’s grown in their garden, could feature sourdough broth to start, a burnt pumpkin-skin ice cream full of campfire smokiness to end and in between dance across a field of herbs: sheep sorrel and pea flowers crowning tagliatelle with blue grenadier, fried calendula flowers topping charred lettuce drizzled in sticky chicken jus, wood sorrel adding granny smith bite to pork neck in broth. It’s cooking, elegant and smart delivered by a wonderfully sweet and engaging team to a fun soundtrack of Bon Iver through Led Zep with wine poured with palpable enthusiasm. What a pleasure.

Must eat dish: the snacks