In the kitchen, whip-smart technique brings Asian and Euro flavours together in the tastiest of ways, served in a darkened diner that’s hip but never try-hard.

The arsenal of dishes is knockout – a soft bun stuffed with Moreton Bay bug tail in a crispy salt and pepper batter, a fiery cumin-spiced lamb skewer with pickles and smoked tofu whipped to resemble yoghurt, and those kiss-curl calamari ‘noodles’ fried in bone marrow for lusciousness and countered with cabbage given the fermented kimchi treatment.

And it’s happy days if the luxe loaded fries is on the specials list – sweet butter-poached marron, kimchi and mornay topping shoestrings in dramatic fashion. Even classics, like the flaky, gooey-good pear tarte Tatin smash it out of the park.

Cleverly conceived and keenly priced, Ramblr is a very Melbourne mash-up that’s always exciting. Believe the hype.

Must-eat dish: Pear tarte Tatin