Anchovy is a very modern and very welcome addition to Bridge Rd, proving Richmond is more than just cheerful pho and noodles to go. Chef-owner Thi Le’s menu is as tight and perfectly formed as the utilitarian room that’s as packed on a cold Tuesday as it is a summer’s Saturday night. That’s because word has spread that there’s mighty fine — and fabulously priced — fare being plated up here. Whether tartare studded with blood orange and topped with toasted rice, or half a roasted cauliflower swimming in a sublime curry-spiked oil, or whole whitings deep fried crisp and served with coconut mignonette, dishes show Eurasian sense and sensibility that make new classics of old favourites.

Crunchy-edged Vietnamese blood pudding served with tamarillo and ginger is a win for the adventurous and squeamish alike, while fermented red rice proves a sticky, nutty sauce for pink-sliced duck. With a short international wine list, a few well-shaken cocktails and service that’s calm and clever, Anchovy is redefining Asian dining in Richmond, and for that we’re all richer. It’s a totally wonderful package.

Must eat dish: steak tartare