Buzzy, loud and full of personality, this modern Thai eatery has become such a favourite that diners can expect an hour-long wait for a table, even on weekdays. But the broad and enticing menu that expands from bar snacks like satay scallops and soft-shelled crab bao into salads, curries, stir-fries, and rice and noodle dishes is worth your patience.

Call on the well-informed, if slightly impersonal, staff for advice on both meal selection and drink pairings, with a creative range of Asian-inspired cocktails available, alongside out of the ordinary wines.

Communal tables run almost the length of the restaurant putting guests in the heart of the commotion; but score a perch at the bar to be treated to all the action of the kitchen. The Mexican-cum-Thai riff on a prawn cocktail – the prawn larb taco – is an effortless yet deeply satisfying snack you’ll want more than just one of.

But truly unmissable is the Angus beef cheek red curry with meltingly tender meat in a sauce that ticks off on the prized sweet, sour, salty, bitter balance of Thai cooking to deliver nuance and interest with each bite.

Add the accompanying outstanding pork and sweet potato dumplings into the equation and it’s a rib-sticking dish worthy of the venue’s signature status.

A dessert of dense chilli chocolate tart is balanced by nitrogen-frozen coconut “snow” and passionfruit curd, but it’s the savoury dishes here that need diners’ full attention. With portion sizes that represent terrific value for money, it’s not hard to see why this restaurant draws the crowds.

Must-eat dish: Beef cheek red curry