With a focus on classical cookery and set menus, there’s a strong French accent here. Owner-chef Dan Arnold grew up in Brisbane and after an apprenticeship at Il Centro, headed to France for seven years, working in two Michelin star restaurants.

Last year after winning eighth place at the prestigious French cooking competition, the Bocuse d’Or, Arnold returned home to go out on his own. Now he’s offering three or five set courses as well as a small a la carte menu at lunchtimes and at the bar on Friday and Saturday evenings.

The lineup changes regularly but an entrée might be kingfish draped with very thin slices of cauliflower and accessorised by artichoke barigoule with a froth of vermouth emulsion. Main course could be saddle of lamb with the beautifully pink, soft meat contrasting with a cube of crispy belly, with a bowl of potatoes Lorette on the side.

At this point diners can add in a cheese course or head straight to a dessert, possibly strawberries on a sable biscuit with vanilla diplomat cream, strawberry sorbet and chocolate.

Must-eat dish: Goldband snapper