There is not a grander dining room in Sydney and there are few kitchens that commit so strongly to the best-in-class produce, simply cooking it and leaving it bare on the plate to reveal its true nature.

Yes, Rockpool is known for the amazing steaks and breathtaking space inside the 1936 Emil Sodersteen-designed art deco skyscraper, but it is the dedication of Neil Perry and chef Corey Costello to sophistication in simplicity that sets Rockpool apart from so many other restaurants. Think a piece of coral trout, cooked over flames and left to shine on the plate with a lemon wedge, lobster with herb butter or David Blackmore’s wagyu sirloin cooked on the Josper grill and served with a lemon cheek.

With emerald marble pillars, high ceiling, mezzanine and dark leather-bound seats, this is a serious room filled for the most part with suits but, with a menu longer than the City to Surf, there are myriad dishes to choose from, making it far from the red wine and steak club some think it is. Start with a Perry classic – diced yellowfin tuna, Moroccan eggplant, cumin mayonnaise and harrisa, and perhaps the steak tartare or fried Southern calamari with romesco sauce. Next, quince, hazelnut and pancetta partner grilled partridge, spicy mussels star in a saffron seafood stew and a traditional mint jelly makes good mates with Milly Hill lamb chops and cutlets. The service is exceptional, the drinks list extraordinary and although the prices are eye-watering, it’s a special occasion restaurant you simply must try at least once.

Must eat dish: Four raw tastes of the sea