Up the top end of town, where lawyers lunch and deals get done, Saxe is a wonderful surprise.

For here in a handsome two-storey diner decked out in royal blue, Joe Grbac is serving up a celebration of home-grown produce transformed into technical yet approachable and undeniably delicious fare.

A focus on the seasons might mean Mt Macedon pine mushrooms in autumn or salt-baked celeriac with a 63°C egg from one of the 16 chooks Grbac has pecking around his garden.

The always evolving menu could feature a plate of superb confit salmon with nutty soba noodles flecked with fine slivers of calamari, or a brilliant John Dory with roasted fennel, black olives, mussels and octopus. Grbac nails these classic flavour combos, all given a winning modern twist.

One of the city’s best sides, Mornington Peninsula spuds roasted in duck fat and tossed through cornichons for seasoned crunch, is a non-negotiable addition to any meal.

It’s food that’s made for wine, with a beautifully considered list delivering much love in the glass by smart staff who know what they’re doing.

Add an unbeatable lunch deal, where two courses are just $45, and you have a package that’s full of Saxe appeal.

Must eat dish: Salmon with soba