Conjuring images of a Japanese rock garden, a quenelle of the silkiest honey ice cream sits atop pebbles of nitrogen-frozen mascarpone dotted with pearls of blackberry, finger lime and marigold petals concealing spoonfuls of guava sorbet. This not-too-sweet, beautifully balanced dessert is well worth saving room for at GOMA’s signature restaurant. Much like the rest of the menu at this acclaimed venue, it is elegant, refined and sophisticated.

Now under the watchful eye of executive chef Doug Innes-Will, GOMA has done away with some of the magic and storytelling of the past and is now focusing solely on flavour.

The best local produce is used in an entree of Hervey Bay scallops with tamarind, chilli and kaffir lime, as it is in a main of chicken, sourced from Queensland free-range farm 9Dorf, accompanied by black rice, black vinegar and black garlic – for maximum visual impact.

A parochial approach has also been applied to the wine list, with some of Queensland’s best labels taking pride of place within the predominantly Australian and New Zealand list. For a vino pairing with the food, ask for advice from one of the well-versed waiters, who know the menu inside out and deliver dishes with aplomb.

Boasting a light-filled, airy fitout and a relaxed yet refined atmosphere, this restaurant is equally well suited to lunch for one as it is to dinner for 10.

Must-eat dish: Honey ice cream with blackberry