In Kisume, Midas-touch restaurateur Chris Lucas’s Japan is bold, beautiful and buzzy, a multi-purpose firecracker encompassing restaurant, sushi counter, Chablis bar and The Chef’s Table – one of the best communal dining experiences in Melbourne.

The omakase (chef’s selection) is a compelling collision of top-end ingredients, technique and performance, enjoyed at a horseshoe-shaped table with up to 11 of your new best friends, as chefs assemble, pour and present each course.

There might be uni (sea urchin) in dollhouse cones to start, bonito flakes in a coffee syphon infusing a storm clam broth, or charcoal cooking at its finest with o-toro (tuna belly) sushi seared on the spot with a binchotan log.

Downstairs, sushi and sashimi are some of the freshest you’ll find – the kingfish topped with Tassie black truffle is out of this world, while tempura is light and lovely, especially when encasing tiger prawns this plump. And to finish, insta-worthy desserts include the artful hazelnut dacquoise orb.

Kisume is a pricey party, but a party nonetheless.

Must-eat dish: Kingfish sashimi with black truffles