It might be a bambino compared to Melbourne’s Italian dining institutions with decades on the board, but this neighbourhood gem is already a mighty force.

Opened in late 2017, Park St Pasta and Wine is a little pocket of warmth and welcome, teaming family-style dining with restaurant finesse.

Simple pleasures start with crumbed-and-golden-fried pork polpette anchored with pesto and a furry hat of parmesan, and round out with bombolini (doughnuts), fluffy and light in a bed of whipped mascarpone with passionfruit and lemon curd.

In between, house-made pasta is a pure joy, perhaps perfectly al dente pappardelle swaddled in one of the most deeply delicious and satisfying ragus you may ever have, or campanelle pasta, all ruffle-edged and rustic, jostling with nubs of pork and fennel sausage.

There’s easy drinking from mostly Italian wines, with service that’s upbeat and no-fuss in a handsome old corner Victorian building. It’s a must visit.

Must eat dish:  Pappardelle with ragu alla Bolognese