Charming, engaging and, most importantly, informed service is the star at this relaxed suburban fine diner from chef/owner Paul McGivern.

Passionate about their profession and with a wealth of knowledge, the staff elicit the trust of diners, encouraging them to move beyond their comfort zones and try something new from the tight but enticing modern Australian menu.

Tempting guests may be a quail ballotine entree, its sweet, slightly gamey meat balanced by tart muntries and burnt carrot; while the venue’s signature dish is a main course of gently smoked duck breast, blushing pink inside, with pops of blackberries for brightness and a just-sweet jus worth the judgement of licking the plate clean.

Desserts reflect the season and blend classic techniques with on-trend ingredients such as in a Caramelia ice cream number with jerusalem artichoke and orange sherbet.

It’s all very clever cooking but in the relaxed, suburban setting of a cosy, renovated old cottage, with a heavy walnut bar against white VJ walls, that’s comfortable and inviting for all.

Must-eat dish: Smoked duck