A generosity of spirit is the backbone of this mod Middle Eastern, where the food is as personality packed as its owner-chef Shane Delia.

By night, choose from two, four, five or six hearty courses served as shared banquets or degustation dining. All will feature Maha’s signature 12-hour lamb shoulder, perfectly yielding and perfumed with coriander and cumin, though plant-based dishes — pumpkin kibbeh, and pilaf with zucchini and olive — also star. The cured swordfish with preserved lemon and piped with kewpie mayo puts the fun into fine dining.

Do go the matched wines (from $30) for engaging drops brought to you by switched-on staff. The sumptuous basement dining room has a buoyant energy, while eating here is a homely, value-for-money experience. The bill comes with packets of za’atar spice to take home — a small touch ensuring you’ll feel the love long after you’ve left the building. That is if Delia doesn’t randomly call you the next day to see how you enjoyed your meal.

Must eat dish: 12-hour lamb shoulder