Victoria’s best Thai is found in … Ballarat? Once again there’s gold in them thar hills, this time dug out of the sour, sweet, salty and spicy flavours served up by chef Damien Jones, who learnt his trade at the hand of the master, David Thompson. And Jones’ ever-changing banquet is a procession of hits.

From the salty-sweet one-bite hit of ground salmon and watermelon on betel leaf through a lemony firm-fleshed hapuka curry with deftly delivered creeping heat, or slices of perfectly pink beef served with a salt-lime sauce that truly zings, this is cooking as authentic as it is classy. A chicken salad is nothing short of revelatory, thanks to the textural heft of banana blossom, while the dessert platter is an eye-opening full stop. The cumulative chilli heat is ever-present but nuanced, creeping up and over the meal until it slips away into the night.

Service is equally clever and the local-focused wine list filled with interest and fair prices. Ballarat, hot? Thanks to Catfish it is.

Must eat dish: dessert platter