Joe Valore and Elvis Abrahanowicz, that clever crew behind Porteño, Bodega and a swag of soiree-style eateries delivered to Sydney the local deli, bar and bistro it had yearned for, and a few years on Continental is not only firing on all cylinders, but opening a sibling in the city, too.

With some of the world’s greatest tinned seafood, charcuterie, cheeses and arguably the best cocktails – you simply must order the signature Mar-tinny, Can-hattan or Cosmopoli-tin (all canned on site) – plus a banging bistro menu and it’s got whatever evening you’re after well and truly covered. Step through the red door into this up-and-down two-storey terrace and become consumed by a glass cabinet full of cracking cheeses, smallgoods hanging from the rafters, wall-to-wall tins and happy punters sitting on stools at the marble bar, or on small round high tables, enjoying a drink and perusing the menu.

Upstairs you’ll find two quaint rooms of tables and chairs, where you can sit in groups and jump into the bistro and deli offerings in equal measure. Chef Jesse Warkentin’s menu is a mix of simple French and Mediterranean fare. Start with the obligatory gildas where olive, Ortiz anchovy and guindilla arrive on a toothpick.

Choose a top-notch tin of sardines, then scoop up grass-fed sirloin steak tartare with house-made gaufrette potato crisps. Barbecue octopus comes with a sharp nduja, while bullhorn puttanesca supports a stellar pork and fennel sausage. Come for a snack or do the full dinner – it’s your choice at perhaps our most lively suburban eatery.

Must-eat dish: House-made canned seafood