They don’t make a fuss about things at The Glenelg Public House. The fitout is that of a sophisticated steakhouse, as comfortable as the time-mellowed leather of its chesterfield lounge. The prices are very reasonable and the menu unpretentious. So it’s a very pleasant surprise when it delivers a level of service that’s far above its pay grade, alongside simply delicious food.  What the wine list lacks in volume it makes up for in considered recommendations. Venture away from the tried and tested and leave pairings in these capable hands – they’ll introduce you to some lovely lesser-known labels.

That same trust will be repaid on the food front. Tempted to go for the usual sirloin or eye fillet? Let the team talk you into the underrated hanger steak – you won’t eat better. Or get a few friends together and put the 1kg T-bone in the centre of the table with a few supersized, super-tasty sides, such as wagyu-fat roasted kipfler potatoes, or yoghurt and dukkah dressed carrots.  There’s more choice than usual for gluten-free diners, and plenty to please less-committed carnivores: gooey-centred golden roast raclette with pear, fig relish and hazelnuts; smoked ham hock terrine with spiced apple chutney; and kingfish given a quick turn in the pan. Above all, it’s the service that shines.

Must-eat dish: Hanger steak