This fetching corner site has been pouring wine for Carlton for more than a decade, but its new incarnation with a trio of hospo-lifers at the helm – Andrew Joy (ex Marion) and Travis Howe (ex Coda/Tonka) out front; John-Paul Twomey (Cutler & Co founding head chef) on the pans – is its best yet.

The 100-strong list is a peripatetic labour of love filled with lesser-known grower/producers and while there’s a fair bit of skin contact funkiness within, there are also ample approachable pours in gorgeous glassware for those who just want to drink, not think.

The menu is filled with big flavours and clever combinations. Plump mussels that taste of the sweet sea served with crunchy baby cucumbers, chickpeas, dill, and creme fraiche gets a big tick, as does a sublime plate of chunky kingfish crudo with pickled daikon batons and fresh horseradish. Juicy late-season tomatoes dressed with anchovies is a winner, while charred broccoli with fat, crisp pancetta and grated yolk is the best way of being green.

That dishes are offered in half sizes makes this the perfect spot for the solo diner, but it’s equally comfortable for groups. Warm and welcoming, and run by a team with hospitality in their DNA, a fine wine time is a given here.

Must-eat dish: Kingfish crudo