To ascend Grossi Florentino’s curving staircase and dine in its glorious Mural Room is to enter a world of classic Italian hospitality.

The Renaissance murals glow, the chandeliers twinkle and the well-groomed waiters navigate the tables with practised ease. But time has not stood still at the “Flo”.

Guy Grossi — its proud custodian since 1999 — is a quiet moderniser who issues diners with an informal looking menu on arrival, then splices their three courses ($140) with a succession of mod-style canapés showcasing the ingredients that excite him.

“Melbournese cooking’’, Grossi calls it. And while this gentle tug between tradition and modernity might not please every Florentino diner, there are many joys to be had.

Moonlight oysters and mandarin mud crab, egg-yolk ravioli and duck tortellini, toothfish with sea herbs and suckling pig with dates.

Yes, there is still a chocolate souffle but don’t overlook arancia rossa, a carnivelesque Grossi dessert founded on blood orange sorbet and chocolate mousse.

The Florentino wine list is long and deep, touching vineyards in every corner of the Italian boot, while the silver service remains correct. As always.

Must eat dish: Berkshire suckling pig with mustardela and mustard greens