In all the ways that really matter, The Fish House hasn’t changed a bit. Same blissful Burleigh beach view – best appreciated over a long lunch. Same commitment to seafood of consistent quality. It’s still celeb spotting central, with singing star Pink the latest in a long list of VIP diners, and it’s still top choice for a special occasion for the rest of us.  

While you can expect to pay at the upper end of the range for a meal, no expense is spared in maintaining the hefty wine list and sourcing delights from the deep. Foremost among the piscine perks is a portion of firm, white Patagonian toothfish from Heard Island, marinated in miso and sake. It’s been on the menu since the beginning and its appeal is undiminished. Don’t overlook the specials board, however – the odds are in your favour if you play the whole fish lotto.

The clean flavour of blue cod from across the ditch doesn’t disappoint, but the catch of the day is always thoughtfully treated. Side acts could be sublimely simple from lemony fish soup, and live oysters, to lightly seared Yellowfin and prawn bisque risotto. For those who aren’t fans of seafood, concessions include a Rangers Valley wagyu striploin. The service is as smartly polished as ever, although some front-of-house need to be better educated on the finer details of the menu. Still, it’s hard to mind too much when you score beachside seats at those breezy bi-fold windows.  

Must-eat dish: Miso Patagonian toothfish