From the plush dining chairs to the white cloths, elegant glassware and crockery, sound-deadening carpet and stellar views to the Story Bridge, every base is covered to enhance the dining experience before you even get to the food, drinks and service. These over-achieve too, with the voluminous wine list winning this year’s Australian Wine List of the Year award, a staff member for taking orders, another to deliver them, the sommelier to oversee wine choice and someone else to pour the water and wines by the glass. 

The menu descriptions are opaque, with a list of three or four ingredients the only clue as to what the dish might involve but fortunately well-drilled staff are on hand to answer any query. Coal-grilled, tender West Australian octopus teamed simply with nduja, tomato and ribbons of zucchini turns out to be a fine starter, while beautifully cooked blue-eye trevalla with a couple of diamond shell clams is terrific.

A dessert simply described on the menu as chocolate and passionfruit is a treasure trove of components: ice cream, sorbet, sauce and tangy dried passion fruit. All of this comes at a price but if you’re up for a cosseting fine-dining experience, they’ve got you covered.

Must-eat dish: Blue-eyed trevalla