Art’s value is often down to the eye of the beholder. It’s easy to assume we only venture to Queensland’s Gallery of Modern Art to digest the works of many of the modernists of our time, but one of Brisbane’s finest exhibitions of contemporary cooking is housed in the very same building. Floor-to-ceiling windows drench a sophisticated space of polished concrete floors, classic bistro chairs and white-clothed tables in gorgeous sunlight. It’s the perfect environment for chef Josue Lopez to deliver aesthetically stunning food that relies on Australia’s native ingredients and breathtaking technique in equal measure.

Slivers of emu get a sweet kiss from beetroot, rosella and eucalyptus, while desert lime and watermelon add a refreshing twang to the earthiness of Murray cod. Then wagyu finds unusual allies in sandalwood nut and avocado before burnt meringue adds merit to macadamia and anise myrtle.

With food and service so good, it’s just a shame it’s only open one night a week (Friday) – but then again, a long, languid lunch is one of the greatest pleasures of modern life.

Must-eat dish: Coral reef – fish, scallop, cauliflower, finger lime, oyster mushroom