A restaurant with the knack of delivering whole-hearted hospitality, thanks to the loveable owners chef Gregory Llewellyn and front-of-house legend Naomi Hart, they’ve always delivered big, and we mean large on portions, but something is different on the plate.

Sure, they’re brightened up the space, added sound-proofing, loads of natural light and a mix of oak, brown upholstery, greenery and now, streetside alfresco dining, but the big change is Llewellyn’s food, with the help of chef Jarrod Walsh, which has moved from hearty generous portions of Americana to thoughtful, nuanced and delicate fare that still holds on to Hartsyard’s signature ‘big flavour’ forte.

Crisp ‘cheddar puffs’ come with a mustard dip and the cool relief of kohlrabi. Hervey Bay scallops are garnished with grape jewels and rest on a slice of scallop sausage. A deep, alluring prawn oil rounds out sweet blood-warm scampi and prawn tartare, while peach puree partners pressed duck leg, garnished with a highly addictive ‘duck crackling’. Worlds away from the fried chicken world (don’t worry they’re still selling it – a few doors up at Wish Bone), but just as satisfying.

The evolution of Hartsyard is a wonderful lesson for all operators needing, or yearning for change. Often, you’ve just got to be brave enough – and here fortune has certainly favoured brave. Bravo.

Must-eat dish: Scampi and prawn tartare with tobiko, salt & vinegar crisps, saffron