The Burleigh Heads venue is the handiwork of acclaimed chef Alex Munoz Labart, who eschewed the prestige that came with running revered Sydney restaurants Cirrus Dining and Monopole, to move north and strike out on his own with wife Karla.

The result is a sophisticated and smart eatery with nods to European craftsmanship but with a casualness that is distinctly Gold Coast.

Kale-hued timber panelling lines the walls, met by a tan leather banquette that runs almost the length of the rectangular space, while industrial sconces and glass and metal pendants cast a gentle glow throughout the space.

The share-style menu is modern Australian, heavy with European technique.

Think veal tartare with sun-dried tomato, tarragon and potato crisp ($22); barbecued flank steak with creamy egg yolk and charred onion sauce ($38); and carciofi fritti – crumbed and deep fried globe artichokes with garlic aioli ($12).

The locally caught spanner crab ($24) is treated delicately, its abundant sweetness played up by a seaweed-laced, emulsified stock of their shells and contrasted by charry wilted baby leek; while the mulloway ($34) on our visit is replaced by two small fillets of crisp-skinned saddletail, pungent with dill in a buttery sauce.

The indulgence factor is magnified with a side of golden, fried potato rounds in sour cream with a hint of smokiness ($10).

Desserts include a chocolate mousse, yoghurt sorbet or a subtle apple ice cream joined by poached rhubarb in a rose-spiked syrup ($15).

Must-eat dish: spanner crab