Fans of Lankan Filling Station during its run at the Carriageworks Farmers Market gave thanks this year when the doors opened at the former stall’s bricks-and-mortar home in East Sydney.

Drawing on her Sri Lankan heritage, O Tama Carey puts the spotlight on hoppers – served neat or with an egg set in the centre – just asking to be swiped through the likes of lush potato curry enlivened with turmeric, green chilli and Lankan mustard, or a feisty prawn curry sharpened with tamarind. Lesser-used mutton makes an appearance in a black and dry curry, and it’s the dish of the day on this visit.

Various iterations of sambol range from the fresh and fragrant green pol sambol of coconut, ginger and coriander to the sweet and sour seeni sambol of caramelised onion with tamarind and spice, and pol sambol of coconut, chilli and lime made savoury with Maldive fish. Condiments also include addictive white chillies, steeped in whey and fried crisp.

Sides likewise vary in chilli factor, the cabbage mallung gently spiced with turmeric and mustard seeds, while eggplant brims with heat and tamarind. The steamed rice is a nutty red heirloom variety from Sri Lanka (organic rice flour grown and ground in New South Wales is used for the hopper batter).

The drinks list sees a tight line-up of spice-friendly wines joined by house-blends of Lankan tea and the boozier Ceylon Arrack, and the party is presided over by switched-on, seasoned staff.

Must eat dish: Egg Hopper, blackened dry mutton curry, sambal.