Maha has been Melbourne’s favourite Middle Eastern dining den since 2008 and, ten years on, Shane Delia’s twinkling sub-basement diner feels more assured – and affordable – than ever.

A choice of three set-course menus is offered. The eight-course degustation ($140) is where Delia cuts loose with modish flourishes, but the more relaxed, almost rustic four-course ‘soufra’ ($85) casts its own spell. Among an array of masterful mezze, we loved arak-pickled cucumber and beef kibbeh on puffed black rice. The roasted lamb shoulder with green olive tabouleh remains a signature main, too. But Delia’s way of casting classics in a new light is best shown in his ‘gul borek’, a small share dish where black cabbage, lentil and feta are locked in layers of flaky pastry, with fermented black garlic. Sublime.

Sticky Turkish delight doughnuts to finish? Of course. Rely on Maha’s accomplished staff for all your drinks, whether they be pomegranate cocktails, Israeli lagers or a French syrah.

Must-eat dish: Slow roasted lamb shoulder, garlic, cumin, green olive tabouleh