Some of the city’s best eats are stationed at the historic Tramsheds precinct, including Bodega 1904, the second tapas bar from culinary compadres, Elvis Abrahanowicz, Ben Milgate and Joe Valore, who are joined in the business by chef Joel Humphreys.

Set amongst a swathe of steel and glass traders, Bodega 1904 is distinguished by its spearmint studded bar stools, and the happy patrons on them, sipping sherry and leisurely snacking on a scattering of salty morsels.

Look closer and you’ll see warm olives and crusty sourdough, fat, furry Olasagasti anchovies, pink ribbons of jamon Serrano and pickled guindilla peppers that pop in your mouth. It’s too hard to walk past without hopping on board yourself.

As they’ve done with its sister in Surry Hills, the Bodega boys have built the menu around Latin American and Spanish flavours, with dishes that highlight their skills on the grill.

A tangle of tentacles is brought to life with a rich and smoky butifarra sausage and the gooey glory of a soft fried egg, while goat’s milk mountain cheese gets a sweet-and-sour hit by way of confit black olives and a drizzle of local honey.

The dish that will sear in your memory as fiercely as it does on the coals is the chargrilled black sausage, a spicy blood loaf paired with cooling yoghurt curds and a piquant mojo verde.

One of the venue’s most notable features is its walk-in wine cellar and store, where the Argentinian and Aussie wine list is brought to sparkling life. Feel free to peruse the shelves yourself; there are many magnificent malbecs just waiting to be discovered.

For Argentinian fare with fiery Spanish flair, make Bodega 1904 at Tramsheds your next stop.

Must-eat dish: Charcoal-grilled black sausage, mojo verde and yoghurt