While unabashedly pitched at those for whom drinking an $8500 bottle of Romanee-Conti grand cru isn’t the stuff of mere fantasy — yes, that’s a helipad out front for people flying in for lunch — the grandly ambitious addition to the Yarra Valley that is Levantine Hill has something for all.

While all-day fare keeps the sun-drenched terrace happily fed, it’s the signature restaurant featuring Teage Ezard’s name that’s the artful match for Paul Bridgeman’s unashamedly ambitious estate wines.

And a year on, with new head chef Aaron Duffy executing Ezard’s vision, the Yarra Valley’s fanciest fine diner has settled into a fabulous groove, now serving food not only exquisite, but exciting.

Silken apple wood-smoked Ora King salmon with yuzu and variations of cucumber is as pretty as it is perfectly executed; likewise a twirl of jamon iberico that surrounds first of the season asparagus, pea mousse and a rye crumb, though, lest that all seem to highbrow, a bowl of crunchy spaetzle with egg and a “cheese on toast” foam shows comfort food can come with class.

Estate wines are matched with precision, as is service that’s engaged and engaging. This is now the celebration of the best that’s truly worth celebrating.

Must eat dish: Ora King salmon with cucumber