With its canal views and bi-fold doors catching the river breeze, it’s hard not to feel relaxed at Noosa Waterfront.  It helps the warm, experienced wait staff make diners feel immediately at home. Try a glass from the extensive range of Italian, Australian and New Zealand wines or a cocktail from a list designed for gin aficionados. The pick is the barman’s rosemary-infused gin topped up with Fever Tree tonic, fresh lavender in a huge crystal goblet.

The aperitif pairs nicely with exciting share bites that punch with flavour without ruining the appetite, such as the shucked oysters under a teaspoon of sweet mandarin sorbet or  the smooth, mild house-sausage spread over thin cracker with a nice bite of horseradish gel.

Also worth tasting are the taco-like matcha piadina with cured kingfish, fish roe, coriander and rocket. Mains are safe traditional favourites, plus pizza and pasta, but true to the cuisine simple flavours that allow to ingredients stand out. Highlights are the tender veal saltimbocca served with creamy smoked eggplant puree and the full-flavoured Tuscan seafood stew with garlic crostini bread to mop up the rich sauce.

Choosing which of the eight desserts is a big challenge but it’s hard to go past the castagne e cioccolato – a  quenelle of light chestnut gelato balances a sweet, dense finger of chocolate mousse cake.

The venue is open in the evening but dining at lunch takes full advantage of the location. It’s no surprise it’s also a popular venue for weddings and special occasions.

Must-eat dish:  Cacciucco (Classic Tuscan Stew)