[Now closed]

A foam representing crashing waves, a piece of cured watermelon with the texture of emu, or tapioca pearls that mimic eel eggs. While these cheffy flourishes are intriguing, and currently available on Brisbane menus, sometimes all you crave is simple food done well. And that’s just what diners will find at the new 35 Bar & Bistro at South Brisbane.

The restaurant’s Italian/European slanted menu is all about letting top-notch produce shine without any unnecessary pomp. The result is food you’ll delight in and come back for.

The crab and prawn squid ink linguine is a fine example. Black pasta strands twirl between masses of sweet prawns and flecks of crab meat, while visible threads of red chilli provide the precise amount of heat to enliven the mix without overpowering the seafood. Equally balanced is the classic pairing of scallops and chorizo with a butter bean puree and basil pesto.

A main dish of roasted lamb rump is also uncomplicated but well executed, with the meat blushing and an accompanying ratatouille delicately seasoned with anchovy, while a Jackson Pollock splash of balsamic adds sweetness.

Perhaps the most memorable dish on the menu is the salad of bugs. There are no leafy greens here – instead the plate is coloured with white and aubergine slivers of octopus carpaccio topped with lightly fried baby squid and bug meat. Add to that discs of roasted watermelon and a slightly acidic dressing and it’s an exciting dish that reaches far beyond its humble name.

Fold into the mix polished, professional waitstaff, a solid wine selection and a relaxing ambience and it’s a package worth returning for.