One of the original laneway haunts and still up there with the best. The terracotta and timber fitout might be taverna lo-fi, but flavours pack the punch of Spanish conquistador.

The anchoa (hand-filleted anchovy with smoked tomato sorbet on crispbread) remains a Melbourne must-eat, while thick-crunch croquettes are the town’s top. Move onto beef cheek, braised to sticky tenderness in pedro ximenez sherry on a bed of cauliflower puree, before going out on churros with chocolate dipping sauce. Or, better still, the flan in all its caramelly glory.

Bright and breezy staff will help you drink to the region, with Moritz cerveza or tempranillo from Rioja.

This bolthole began the MoVida empire, which today takes in airport and Balinese offshoots. But dance with the one that brought you because whether it’s been five days or five years between visits, eating here is like a big warm hug from an old amigo.

Must eat dish: anchoa