‘An extension of our home, where our customers are treated as friends and family’ is how Mike McEnearney and his team set out the ethos behind the city restaurant. Centrestage is the open kitchen, with wood-fired oven playing the main character throughout the menu, which spans a number of regions and cuisines including Italian, Greek and Asian, yet the flavour combinations listed are familiar, not daunting.

Wood-fired spanakopita is doused in a layer of za’atar for lemony zest that balances the spinach and cheese filling so well it rivals any spanakopita we’ve tasted before. The intriguing prawn and eggplant ‘sandwich’ – the eggplant sandwiching braised prawns – comes with a black sesame rice cracker that feels like a gatecrasher to the otherwise must-attend party. Luckily, the lightly seared Rangers Valley beef tataki with tart ponzu, bitey fresh horseradish and texture-bringing edamame hits all the right notes. A chocolate custard tart with a healthy dollop of salted caramel cream is the applause-deserving finale.

A wine that isn’t highlighted as natural is poured without confirming the choice, and a few further misses from the floor team hint that the service is currently lacking the polish to match the fantastic food.

The dishes at No 1 Bent Street are the best they’ve ever been, and next year hopefully the service will match.

Must eat dish: Wood-fired spanikopita