In one of Brisbane’s best riverfront locations, Stokehouse Q offers more than city views and gentle breezes. The food sets a cracking pace of innovation within a classical framework. Grass-fed beef tartare is spiced up with native pepper and mushroom jam – an elegant match with a glass of bone-dry Chateau de Castelnau Picpoul de Pinet, one of many interesting wines on a large list.

There’s the slow-roasted Brahman hump with charred brassicas and fermented chilli dressing and the fish and chips take on an architectural aesthetic, fat, thrice cooked potato criss-crossed on the plate with slivers of soda-battered fish. A specials board, explained by knowledgeable staff, provides tempting choices, including a medium-cooked swordfish steak in ham hock broth.

Newly reopened after a slick kitchen refurb, Stokehouse Q has retained its favoured dessert, “The Bombe”, frozen white chocolate parfait, strawberries, toasted meringue, a triumph of sweetness and texture. Book early for a seat in the main restaurant section to maximise the experience. The adjacent Q bar offers snacks – think mozzarella and bolognaise jaffles, and grilled halloumi with burnt honey and fresh mint – and try the Goodwill Rising cocktail, a nod to the closest bridge, and a beguiling blend of tequila, fig jam, ginger, pineapple shrub and lemon juice.

Must-eat dish: Grass-fed beef tartare, potato chips, mushroom jam, native pepper