Serving up sleek modern Italian fare with a side of Bondi beach, Maurice Terzini’s Icebergs goes from strength to strength. A magnet for the insta-savvy, well-heeled fashionistas and, of course, food lovers, the restaurant view is very nearly surpassed by the superlative plates from Monty Koludrovic, Alex Pritchard and pastry chef Jaclyn Koludrovic.

Match your chosen bubbles to Pambula rock oysters or the chef’s clever (read: very extra) take on surf ‘n’ turf – sea urchin roe adorned with slices of foie gras. If you’ve signed up for a long lunch, make your way through a selection of charcuterie (local LP’s blood sausage is a favourite) before moving to antipasti and primi. Scampi con Ravanelli is a lovely plate of the grilled crustacean, the meat removed from the shell and served on a creamy roe emulsion, a robust umami hit coming from the seasoned nori and warm butter-poached radishes. Koludrovic’s love of extravagant ingredients continues to shine in a pasta course of agnolotti filled with a delicate scallop mousse.

Coin-sized shavings of truffle are draped over the deftly-made pasta dumplings, then dotted with caviar. A warm shiitake broth poured at the table completes the elegant dish. In contrast, a bowl of gnocchi surprises with its boldness. The pillowy nuggets are tossed with a gelatinous, slow-braised kangaroo tail sauce, nicely seasoned with house-made XO, and with small new season broad beans. It’s great to see the underused ‘roo tail treated in such a thoughtful way. It’s special occasion fine dining, and no matter how many times you’ve seen that sparkling vista, it’s remains special, too.

Must eat dish: Potato Gnocchi, XO-Tail Ragu, Cime di Rapa & Broad Bean