Late last year the former South Italian-inspired Popolo underwent a bit of a makeover. Owner Flavio Carnevale was keen to move the Italian stallion to the CBD – still yet to open – and in its place is Marta. Carnevale cut his teeth in the restaurants of Rome, and Marta is an exceptional exponent of the bold, relaxed food of Italia’s capital. A simple, welcoming alfresco environment setting gives it a piazza feel, as diners get busy in bar stools, communal tables and banquettes embracing the emerald-green aesthetic.

It’s relaxed, as is the food, but don’t for a second think the offering is anything less than sensational. A stellar Italian wine selection is backed up by bespoke cocktails and an alluring aperitivi and digestivi list too – so best not drive. Of course the real star here is the big-flavoured, simple and respectful cookery of the dishes that made Rome famous – from a food perspective at least.

In the kitchen, chef Claudio Barzano has taken cues from Carnevale and proves that great produce cooked simply is the best thing in food. Fried whole artichokes are an absolute joy – crunchy, sweet, earthy – so good luck stopping at one. Then perhaps the best pasta in Sydney – pecorino and black pepper may sound simple but the tonnarelli cacio e pepe is a textural cheese-lovers dream of thick spaghetti, melted pecorino and a heavy hand of black pepper.

But, just when you thought pasta would steal the show, the Roman-style pizze (actually schiacciate, made with pinza dough) put their hands up for best in Sydney – thin, malleable, with a chewy give and char on the base, it doesn’t matter which one you order but the Margherita – big red sauce, fior di latte, reggiano and basil leaves – is a crowd-pleaser.

When in Sydney, dine as the Romans do – at Marta.

Must-eat dish: Fried globe artichoke