Wallaby tail soup, as fine as a consomme, filled the well of a stylish ceramic dish. Into this, chef Rhys Blackley had sunk wallaby meat dumplings, wallaby tendon puffs and foraged ice plant leaves. It was delicate and delicious, perfectly suited to the season, and paved the way for dishes – including stinging nettle and ricotta agnolotti, and Dory fillet with calamari and lovage – that signalled a return to Matteo’s Euro roots after years of flirting with Asia.

What hasn’t changed here is the spirit of bonhomie, charming, well-informed service, finely curated cellar and deluxe decor. Granted plenty of creative latitude, Blackley offers a la carte and set menus. Just make sure you don’t miss his stunning roasted pear dessert with its collar of wafer-crisp artichoke.

Must-eat dish: Flinders Island wallaby tail dumpling soup