Its curved bunker-like digs are Bond movie-cool, and inside, clever design and wowing water and vine views are matched by set-price menus that fly the flag for affordable luxury and beautifully balanced global flavours.

There’s fire-roasted Dory under a doona of smoked mussels and green sea herbs, cut with preserved lemon and capers. Berkshire sucking pig is served as a crispy-skinned square of belly, ready to slick with rich morcilla puree in a crispy-shelled croquette and countered with apple and artichoke.

Desserts are frisky and fresh, prettiest of them the caramelised apple dome housing white chocolate mousse and ringed by an oat crumble.

Guided by staff who excel in relaxed, sharp service, drink well with estate wines, plus a raft of heavy-hitters, with rainwater harvested from the property for the designated driver.

Must-eat dish: Caramelised apple dome