There are few chefs as influential on the characteristics of Australian cuisine than Matt Moran. An ability to go toe-to-toe with the most technically proficient chefs in the land with Aria, he’s equally as influential raising the standard of everyday home staples with his heart-warming Chiswick restaurants.

The sister to Sydney’s stunning harbourside haute cuisine king, Aria Brisbane equals big brother, but with an undeniable sense of time and place through the clever use of local Queensland ingredients. Sure the breathtaking view of the Brisbane River will lure some, but the real hook here is the mesmerising proficiency, balance and harmony on the plate.

Inside, an odd multi-coloured carpet clashes with hazelnut tones in a sophisticated split-level space dotted by white double-clothed tables. It’s here reliable waitstaff give Brisbane diners a serious dining experience highlighted by a ripping wine list and food that relies on precision as much as it does produce. Smoked eggplant and basil enhance ruby-red raw tuna. The classic combo of fennel and orange brings balance to slow-cooked pork belly. The natural sweetness of carrot plays well off the mushroom-earthiness of pan-seared barramundi, while a sticky date souffle is deeply satisfying. Aria is the real-deal diner where elegance and entertainment meet magnificently in the middle.

Must-eat dish: Roast rack with lamb bacon, sweetbreads, peas and buttermilk