It’s not exactly a vegetarian’s paradise, but if that’s not a concern, there’s much to enjoy at Colin Fassnidge’s Surry Hills eatery.

That’s not to say that the chef doesn’t know his way around a vegetable dish — those on offer are excellent — but the star plates are for the more carnivorous diner.

While there’s plenty of fish on the menu, there’s no need to feel like an outlier if you order crumbed pig’s ear — you’ll be rewarded with succulence and flavour, and all in the virtuous pursuit of true nose to tail dining. Or try the ham hock and cheese croquette for a nostalgic dish.

There’s also the beef shin to be enjoyed, or the pork of the day; it’s hearty fare.

For sweet things, it’s hard to go past the Eton mess for dessert.

Must eat: Crumbed pig’s ear