A fixture in downtown Port Douglas for many years, Harrisons migrated mid-last year to its new home in the Sheraton. The newly fitted-out restaurant has a clubby feel with dramatic zig-zagged carpet, dark wood upholstered chairs, potted palms and elegant chandelier-style lights.

This, perhaps, is to reflect the heritage of English chef Spencer Patrick, but there’s also a covered terrace jutting out to one of the resort’s massive pools and here it’s all light and bright.

Appetisers include Yorkshire pudding with foie gras and duck liver cannoli with sherry jelly, while entrees take a local turn with a fine North Queensland cobia gravadlax adorned with whorls of pickled cucumber, bush lemon curd, soured cream and rye crumbs.

Tortellini of Endeavour prawns, sitting amid a bacon broth poured at the table, are similarly impressive. The wine list is decent and service attentive and mains might include beautifully plated roasted barramundi with peas, clams, scallops and a lemon butter sauce or red claw yabby with linguini and a ginger lemongrass bisque.

Desserts veer back into British territory with a cigar of “treacle tartish” or “malted parsnip” but neither of which reach the level of the rest of the meal.

Must-eat dish: Cobia gravlax