Based in the historic Strand Arcade, it’s positioned perfectly for shoppers and city workers seeking sustenance with European flair, plus boutique Italian wines from around the region.

The expansive dining room exudes elegance and warmth with its low-lighting, rich red curtains and fastidious wait staff gliding from table to table. The white tablecloths are lined with crisp paper sheets, adding a touch of casualness to the space – a key point of difference to sister restaurant Pendolino.

The magic of the kitchen’s volcanic-rock grill is exemplified through a multitude of dishes, most notably the prized spit-roasted porchetta Castelli Romani, which is only available until sold out. These tasty slabs of succulent swine are in high demand. The Roman grill gets a lot of the glory, but the pastas are quite exceptional too. The ricotta-filled ravioli cacio e pepe (butter, pepper and cheese) is a superb dish; silky, creamy and moreish, and if you’re dining throughout Australian truffle season, your waiter will offer an aromatic shaving.

La Rosa’s thin crust pizzas are also worth a spot on your table and the classic margherita with tomato, Fior di latte, sweet basil and garlic is a top contender for one of the best in Sydney. Following a traditional Roman method, the pizza dough is made 48 hours prior and baked in a stone oven. Pair a slice with the smooth, mild 2016 Sangiovese-Montepulciano. It’s a versatile choice for a range of dishes on the menu, but with La Rosa offering 16 varieties by the glass, the bonus is that you don’t have to stick to one.

Dare for dessert? The zeppola is a sweet delight; a sugar-coated potato dough doughnut with vanilla bean gelato, nestled in an amber pool of butterscotch sauce. It’s one of six traditional desserts on the menu.

Must eat dish: Roman ravioli cacio e pepe