In the restaurant world, the word ‘fusion’ has more often than not meant collision.

Not at Coda. This raffish basement diner, now in its tenth year, continues to meld Asian and Euro influences with aplomb, expressing executive chef Adam D’Sylva’s quest for “balanced flavours, seasonality and innovation.’’ 

At Coda, it seems only natural to bring out wok-tossed lamb with banana chilli one minute and steak tartare with quail eggs the next. Pomme frites and jasmine rice. Sure, why not? Asian influences look to be asserting themselves here. We loved D’Sylva’s Cone Bay barramundi with “jungle aromats”, his roasted “yellow duck” curry and the rum-roasted pineapple dessert with a Thai basil sorbet. Feel free to match those betel leaf cornets of tapioca and prawn with a top drop from Coda’s French-leaning wine list. A sommelier is always on hand here to help.

As for the vibe, it’s still industrial chic but the lights have dimmed, the sharper edges have been softened and Coda feels very good indeed.

Must-eat dish: Cone Bay barramundi with jungle aromats