Donovans is one of life’s reliable pleasures.

Prices can be eye watering (it’s $46 for fish and chips) but that year-round bay view will have you at hello. And once ensconced, flawless service will sweep you off your feet.

Taking its culinary cues from the Mediterranean, the menu is seasonally adjusted but some things never change, like the barbecued leader prawns, simply split down the middle and served with plenty of chilli and oregano, and the Bombe Alaska for two with its torched meringue spikes.

The Sorrento-chic dining room jammed with designer bric-a-brac won’t be for everyone, but owners Gail and Kevin Donovan, as well as their dedicated legion of regulars, special occasioners and Sunday lunchers love it like a second home.

Book early to land a window table and claim the line: “How’s the serenity?”

Must eat dish: Bombe Alaska