The star plate at Walter’s Steakhouse is, not surprisingly, steak – dry-aged porterhouse cooked for two, three or four diners. And it arrives, like a platter of Mongolian beef, sizzling aboard a hot, hot plate. It’s a nice bit of theatre.

It is also a wonderful piece of meat with the intensity that comes with dry-ageing, the double bonus of pink insides and the reduced, deliciously fatty, baked exterior.

Balance the onslaught of protein with sides of German potatoes (sauteed cubes with bacon and onion) and creamed spinach. Aside from the porterhouse in its various sizes there are only two other steaks on the menu – eye fillet and striploin (sirloin); the two cuts that combine to make up the prize porterhouse. Then there are pork striploin, a lamb chop and a salmon steak: succinct and sweet.

Among the earlier dishes are pierogi – Polish potato and cheese dumplings, pan-fried until just a tiny bit crunchy outside, onion jam adding sweet hits, a decent pool of nut-butter at their feet. And veal tongue set amid a copious, slightly overdressed mountain of curly endive. Walter’s Steakhouse has taken over the space that was once Restaurant Two.

The feel is gentleman’s club meets French bistro. Its quirky looks, attentive and well-mannered staff, and its big, sizzling steaks, make Walter’s a winner.

Must-eat dish: 30-day dry age New York strip