Nestled in a top corner of Windsor’s Railway Hotel, paddock-to-plate cheerleader Highline is quietly waving the pompoms for provenance.

Pork, produce, herbs, hives and herd are all sourced from the hotel’s own farm, 130km north-east of Melbourne, and honoured across Simon Tarlington’s forward-leaning yet classically based seasonal menus.

Open with true-blue bites in Vegemite scrolls laminated with lardo or crisp-shelled wallaby croquettes, before – as the pictorial menu shows – continuing your jaunt around the farm from the comfort of the cosy dining room.

Oak Valley Beef smoked and served as a tartare of sorts, with a gloriously malty rye ice cream and thick kimchi crackers for scooping, all sprinkled with cavolo nero dust, plays fun games with texture and temperature, while Berkshire pork lands as a butter-tender rib on the bone as well as a terrine, with a deeply delicious house-made XO sauce poured from a teapot.

Dessert is flaming good – literally. Toast marshmallows at your table over a pine cone lit with brandy rum for a theatrical end to the night. Bravo.

Must eat dish: Campfire marshmallow