Twenty years young, Il Bacaro is still Melbourne’s most romantic restaurant.

The lovely venetian-shaded room, anchored by its distinctive U-shaped bar, remains darkly glamorous — a place for flirting and quiet whispers — with intuitive waiters who know how to “read” diners’ body language: when to recite a “special”, remove a plate, and retreat.

As for chef David Dellai’s food, its still a deft marriage of tradition and innovation. Pasta favourites such as chilli-flecked spaghettini with Moreton Bay bugs stand the test of time. But how easily we are seduced by rabbit tortellini — plump and perfect in their cradle of purple cabbage “paper” — and chestnut maltagliati, allied to wild mushrooms and dried buffalo curd.

Bacaro’s fish is superb. So is the bistecca con funghi. But Dellai’s king hit could well be his suckling pig rotolo, floating on a cloud of potato puree.

Il Bacaro can be a pricey affair, especially if you decide to probe its enticing Italian orientated wine list. But as ginger panna cottas are sent out and espressos land on white linen and shadows gather round every canoodling couple … who’s looking at the bill?

Must eat dish: suckling pig rotolo