There was once a dish on the menu at Gambaro Seafood Restaurant called millionaire’s oysters, with crab and avocado in a decadently rich mornay sauce. It was proprietor Michael Gambaro’s take on oysters Rockefeller.

Tastes change. These days the menu has been stripped of such old-world excesses and most oysters are eaten a la natural, perhaps with a glass of crisp white wine.

Those seeking a nostalgic hit can still order a crayfish in mornay sauce from the special crustaceans menu, along with live mud crabs and seafood platters. And there is still a linguini marinara, with prawns, scallops, fish, calamari, mussels, tomato and basil. It’s the best in town.

Gambaros has been an irresistible lure for seafood lovers since the family opened a fish and chips shop in Paddington in 1952. And the fish choices are endless.

For starters try spanner crab ravioli seafood bisque, or calamari served on a shredded zucchini and radicchio salad. The fillet of swordfish main is a jaw-dropping delight, as is the panko-crumbed red emperor.

Must-eat dish: Queensland mud crab