For the past 15 years Montalto has been a serious Peninsula player; its restaurant as consistently applauded as its wines and olive oils. And from the moment you take a seat in the restaurant and take in the sweeping vines and sculptures beyond the timber-framed windows, it’s clear to see why so many have first planned their “escape to the country” over lunch here.

A respectful deference to produce informs the menu that teams approachable — lamb rump and confit chicken and pan-roasted barramundi — with interesting — miso and dashi and fermented chilli — to excellent effect. Elegantly smoked eel served in a delicate broth with a blanket of soubise is the definition of comfort, while dry-aged duck that’s chewy crisp skin and pink-tinged breast served with dark chocolate morcilla and rich plum compote is vying for the state’s best duck dish. Toasted green freekeh served with a sticky yolked egg is an on-trend win for the veg team, while the palpable interest in food and wine from staff is a win for all.

A postprandial stroll through the sculpture garden and this escape — even for just an afternoon — is great.

Must eat dish: duck with morcilla