Chef Murat Ovaz worked at Balaclava’s Tulum before pressing play on Yagiz, his first solo venture, and just as before, a personal journey is taking place on the plate in an ode to his homeland’s cuisine, but with flavours so now.

Earthy and textural, calamari stuffed with faro, dill and ezine (white) cheese is a signature for good reason, as are the crisp pastry cigars filled with rich duck confit to stub into lip-tingling isot pepper.

Amped with chili oil, charred lamb kofta is tempered with a gorgeously smoky baba ghanoush, while silky parsnip puree and parsley oil-filled onion petals team with an outrageously tender beef short rib. Or think ahead, and with 24 hours’ notice you can have a whole roasted saltbush lamb.

Eager staff who don’t upsell work the room with ease, helping you drink to the region with a sultry syrah or killer cocktails like the supremely quaffable Anatolian Dream with sumac vodka.

Must eat dish: Lamb kofta, pickled chilli, smoked eggplant