BEEF is the lingua franca of the Australian menu, and the original Black Hide Steakhouse at Paddington holds its own among this nation’s very best. Indeed, it has been judged the best steakhouse in the nation – more than once. Not bad for a re-engineered fish and chips shop with a nest of cosy private eating rooms behind the main dining room.

There is an epic line-up of beef from the Stanbroke pastoral company, which regularly delivers at least five wagyu and six angus cuts in the form of T-bones, rumps, rib eyes, sirloins, eye fillets, and the celebrated tomahawks.

There is export-quality wagyu with marble scores of 5+. An entree treat is the raw steak tartare with shallots, cornichons, and a hint of chillies. Or try the bone marrow. Eat mains with an assortment of side dishes, including mushy peas, sauteed mushrooms and creamed spinach.

There’s a set menu of two courses for $85, or three for $89.50, including the wagyu rump. The helpful staff have plenty of wine options to suggest.

Must-eat dish: OP Angus rib on bone