It’s all about the garden and region at Tim and Michelle Foster’s welcoming and subtly stylish Kyneton dining room. From the garden, Tim’s turning out accomplished bistro classics big on flavour and strong on technique. From the region, Michelle’s created a wine list of accomplished beauty, an unaffectedly annotated guide to very good things grape at a price where it’s easy to get caught up in the excitement.

Local produce comes to the fore, whether McIvor Farm pork turned into a two-act plate of crisp-fried shoulder and slow-cooked jowl served with a rainbow of beetroot, or Sutton Grange beef tartare tricked up with nashi pear. Smoked trout adds depth to a bowl of ink-black noodles with confit squid, while arrestingly sharp lemon curd served with mandarin sorbet and yoghurt mousse is a puckeringly perfect end to a meal.

In a town filled with excellent eating options, Source remains one of the best. Go straight to it.

Must eat dish: squid ink noodles with trout