Balancing bamboo steamers of dumplings, platters of whole fish and buckets of champagne, waiters speed around the restaurant floor at Mr Wong, a branch of the ever-expanding Merivale empire. It’s organised chaos and service is fast and efficient, no mean feat in a restaurant of this size. Executive chef Dan Hong’s menu is a thrilling fusion of timeless Cantonese classics and Hong’s contemporary twists on traditional flavours.

An elegant selection of mixed dim sum, fashioned by the deft hand of dumpling master Michael Luo, is offered steamed or fried. The steamed option features pearlescent lobster dumplings dotted with plump pearls of roe, served alongside sweet shu mai filled with scallop and prawn, and vegetarian dumplings stuffed with wild mushrooms.

Sweet and sour pork is a signature plate here; pork hocks are braised slowly, then deep-fried and tossed with a sweet and sour sauce that’s well-balanced through Hong’s use of caramelised Chinese red vinegar and yellow soy paste. Hong turns tradition on its head by coating Glacier 51 toothfish with a sticky char siu marinade that’s usually reserved for pork; it’s a creative and lovely treatment of the flaky white fish.

Hong’s exploration of flavour is both sophisticated and fun, and creative while still hitting the spot. If the dining room crowd is anything to go by, the rest of Sydney is enjoying it too.

Must eat dish: Char siu Glacier 51 toothfish